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Morocco

Marrakesh

My thoughts on first researching and hearing about Marrakech went straight to buzzing markets, lovely people and beautiful scarfs and lights (Of course). I was excited to see the architecture with such things as Mosques and palaces but was also made aware that there was a large poor society within the walls of the Medina and in Marrakech as a whole.

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Getting off the plane in Marrakech sent my senses into overdrive. Not only was my body attempting to accustom to the heat of 50 degrees that was blasting in my face but we were coming to terms with having to fill in small forms regarding where we came from and why we were there, army men standing around and changing up money to their currency. We had planned to have 4
days in Marrakech before starting our tour of the south of Morocco which we had booked through —— .

The one guide we had to how to accustom to life in Morocco for two weeks was a list on our phones from our parents explaining some things they had obviously read or researched. So … basically not much. Our first experience of what the holiday would be like for the next two weeks was trying to haggle for a taxi. Obviously leaving it to the man in the relationship as I didn't care what we payed, I just wanted to be in an air coned room. In the end we gave up only getting it down by 10 Durham (around a pound). This was annoying at the time however, we later found out that we were actually getting the taxi for a good price anyway. We were dropped off on the corner of the street in the middle of the mental-ness of the Medina, our bags were then put into a wheelbarrow and two young boys proceeded to wheel our bags towards are hotel. To say the least we were confused. We had been told not to trust anyone and then this was the first thing we had to do. We ended up asking for our bags back when we got to a little alley way …. Obviously this was already an expense of 250 Durham. Our hotel "Riad Les Trois Palmiers El Bacha" was situated down the back of many conjoining alley ways. It was a hassle to find but was beautiful when we got there. The architecture inside was amazing and the staff made us feel right at home.
View of the Medina from our Riad
View of the Medina from our Riad

After the stress of finding the hotel we set our stuff down and asked for directions to the main square in order to get some food. We found our way there but the food was not worth it. First we tried a little cafe as it was too hot to continue walking without a drink or food … the burger was under cooked and the chips were practically still frozen. disappointed was an understatement. However, Alex’s hunger and love for food actually made him continue eating it and to this day I am surprised he wasn't incredibly sick. After this cafe we walked around, exchanged some more money and try somewhere else for food.This also provided us
with a thin, pathetic pizza .. to say the least .. If you’re ever in Marrakech do not get any kind of American food no matter how sick of Tanginess you get it will not satisfy your hunger.

We made our way back to the hotel. Getting lost in the slums for around 2 hours, losing half the money we had got exchanged due to teenagers offering to show us the way and thinking we could trust one of them. We couldn’t. Not only is everyone constantly attempting to get money from you they never take you to where you want to go and because of this you end up more lost. In the 50 degrees heat you do defiantly not want to be getting lost lets just say that.

​
After eventually finding our way back to the hotel all we wanted to do was jump into the cold pool. This was by far the best part of that day, after we had a swim we sat on the roof terrace and watched the sun go down over the medina which was a stunning view.
Swimming pool within Riad
The market was so different in the evening than in the day. It was packed out and from around a mile away you were able to see the smoke rising from the food stalls within the market. This was amazing but hard to imagine unless you saw it. While here we had to remember not to have any valuables on show or in pockets that people could get to and to remember that all people wanted was to get money from you. However, we did find a quiet little Moroccan restaurant which we had dinner in. This was the best place to watch the market from as we were high up and could look out over it rather than being in the mist of it. Here we had the weirdest but the most tasty food it was called pastille with chicken. This came out as a pastry with icing sugar and cinnamon on top however it had chicken inside of it. Thinking about this it sounds disgusting but tasting it was a different story. The flavours actually all complimented each other and i recommend trying it if you ever do go to Morocco.

Top Tip; Stick to Moroccan food and keep away from the slums.
Moroccan Breakfast


Day 2; involved us chilling and looking around the city.
After the madness of the first day we decided to take it easy. Breakfast was amazing to say the least and consisted of pastries, yogurts, juice, mint tea and breads. After this we put on our thinnest clothing (it was around 45 degrees) and walked out of the Medina in to the rest of Marrakech. Outside of the Medina walls is a more wealthy part of Marrakech. To say the walk felt like it took forever would be an understatement however it did pay off.We found a mackyds’, a mall and many other little things such as a Starbucks. This was defiantly a more westernised part of Marrakech and defiantly made us feel a bit calmer after the instances the day before.


Top Tip; Defiantly have a Moroccan breakfast .. you won’t regret it!!

Secret Gardens, Marrakech, Morocco
Day 3;
After breakfast we wanted to do something and see what Marrakech actually had to offer culture wise. We were guided to the ‘secret gardens’. This was an open space with plants, paths, little streams and amazing buildings. We were told that it had once been a palace.
This is DEFIANTLY worth a visit. It costs hardly anything to get in but has amazing gardens which you can also sit in and have a drink (none alcoholic of course).
After we were finished here we saw that there were some ruins of a castle not far away. We decided to take the walk there, in doing this we found the building which .. to our surprise, was being done up …. Does this not take away from the fact that they are ruins??? Annoyed that we had walked all that way to come across a construction site we decided to make the most of being outside of the Medina walls and went to a little Mexican restaurant. Again … just stick to Moroccan food.
Top Tip; Their gardens and palaces are a must visit. Appreciate the architecture they have to offer.

Day 4; Our last day in Marrakech before our adventure into the High Atlas mountains.
We had been told about the Botanical gardens. These were beautiful and abstract. Theses gardens had been owned by a french painter and were so large. However the colours within the gardens was so different to what we had seen outside. Here is another place that is defiantly worth a visit while in Marrakech.
In the evening we went on the hunt for some alcohol. Here we found one of the only places that served alcohol and had two cocktails. They were defiantly not the best cocktails i had ever had but you can’t really blame them as they don't actually drink alcohol….

Top Tip; Bring your own alcohol …. You won’t find a lot of it out in Morocco or even if you do it’s priced highly anyways.

High Atlas Mountains

Mountains, shoes that aren't meant for hardcore walking and towns with one "shop".

Donkey coming up mountain carrying boy
​Tour Day 1; So we started day 6 of our Moroccan adventure heading to meet the group we would be travelling with for the next week and a bit. Obviously, first meetings are always awkward but there was a needed support that we had to have towards each other in order to move forward with the trip.

Our first adventure with the group involved walking half way up of the High Atlas Mountains while some of our bags were brought up on donkeys. We started the day being woken up a lot earlier than we had been on our previous 5 days of the holiday due to the need to an early start rather than having to walk for a couple of hours when the heat would be at its highest. We got a coach to the point where there was no longer a road for the minibus to pass through and of course … greeting us at this drop off point where a couple of cute kittens and some more friendlier locals than we had met while getting lost in the city of Marrakech. Our walk up there was something un-forgetful.
​Even with the effort of the hike, the views reminded me of something that could have been out of a film, almost as though we weren't looking at it. And these views only continued to get better. We soon arrived at a family home, the house was very beautiful, well hidden as though it was almost out of view from the rest of the world. With only one shop in the village (sound nothing but essentials as everything had to be brought up the mountain by mule), it was almost as though the rest of Morocco would forget about this little town if it wasn't it such an evident place as the mountains.

White Mosque on top of Mountain
​(For travellers who enjoy the outdoors and quiet villages I would highly recommend the trip into the High Atlas Mountains)

The second half of the day involved a choice to take a two-hour hike up to a chapel of the top of a mountain. Of course, the British half of the group decided to take the hike. So we set off with the tour guide and bottles full of water. The sun was incredibly hot and half way up the mountain my heart decided to play up and I went into a full panic mode so I and the older couple that had gone up with us came back down with me. Alex went on with the couple's children and managed to reach the chapel, however, wasn't allowed in (was Muslim only). So rather disappointing all around although I did manage to gain an adopted mother and father within the group which I knew would serve me well for the rest of the trip. One interesting event is that half way up the mountain Alex had said to me he fancied a snickers bar... and right at the top of the mountain that's exactly what he found in small stalls cooled by the mountain rivers.

That night we sat down to a traditional Moroccan meal which involved a tagiean (although at this point we were fond of them we didn't realise how many would actually be coming-our way) But this meal was lovely. We got to know our group and as always me and Alex provided some alcohol that had been one of our priorities to bring when coming up the mountain due to that lack of alcohol available within the whole of morocco (This is as a Muslim country, however it can be bought in some supermarkets and top end bars/ restaurants). This set us off for a good nights sleep for the walk down the mountain the next day.

Tour Day 2; Waking up at ridiculous times in the morning (7/8am) was apparently going to be a normal occurrence over the next week or so. After we were all dressed and were once again full up on a Moroccan style breakfast (Which to be honest I sometimes really fancy on a day to day bases) we packed up our little over night bags and set off down the mountain saying good bye to the magnificent views of the High Atlas Mountains and said hello to the views of the minibus we were going to be sitting on for a number of hours to continue our adventure in the south of Morocco.

Top Tip: If there is any chance for you to visit the High Atlas Mountains I highly recommend it as it provided me and Alex with an amazing outlook on the way some people were living in Morocco and also allowed for us to see incredible views that if we hadn't have visited here we would have most probably of missed out on.


Ouarzazate

'Gateway To The Sahara' 

Swimming Pool Ait Ben Haddou
Day 2 of the tour;
​After collecting our luggage from the house, where it had been left while we were up the mountain. We boarded the minibus ready for the 6-hour drive towards the next small town outside of the Sahara Desert. Ait Ben Haddou consisted of a couple of shops and a few hotels, considering the backdrop to the town had been used for such films as Gladiator and Kingdom Of Heaven, I had thought there would be a bigger tourist attraction surrounding it. 

Once we reached the hotel we were the first ones in the pool and after such a long day travelling and crap air-con on the minibus this was so relaxing and definitely needed. After the groups chilled hour in the pool we all set off for another hour and a half walk to the hillside village where some part of the films were set.
The view from all angles was incredible, although you could tell we were on the outskirts of the Sahara due to the dried out floor and buildings. 

Sugar and tea painting
​Half way up to the top of the hill we came across a local making different paintings out of sugar and tea, he did this by heating these up over a burner and when heated up the original light coloured paint (tea) goes a certain shade considering how much sugar is in it. This was such a unique form of art that I had to buy one. The talent the people in these small towns within the whole of Morocco have was incredible and made you question to the laziness of some of the people within the UK who have access to many jobs that these people could only dream of achieving.
​
After this walk, us and the group went into the little village to go and find somewhere that didn't sell tangines due to the high amount of them we had already consumed …. and WE DID! We found a place that sold Chicken Scallops and Beef sausages so we classed that as being incredibly successful! Although, the waiters couldn't handle a number of people that were there as our group of around 10 people overwhelmed them and only 8/9 of us got the correct meal we asked for or any meal at all. This wasn't too much of a problem though as the food was incredibly cheap and when it did come was well cooked and tasted amazing.


Zagora

'The Oasis town'

Oasis Morocco
Day 3 of the tour;
After waking up to another missed breakfast we packed our stuff and bordered the minibus again. After driving for a few hours we arrived at our lunch place. We picked up food from the shop to create a picnic and continued down the road until we arrived at some palm trees. After the group found a comfortable enough space that was in the shade and wasn't surrounded by bugs (MASSIVE ANTS) we sat and ate some food although most of us weren't that hungry due to the high level of heat that was in the air. So while we were all relaxing and enjoying not being on the minibus Alex decided to take himself off on an adventure around the open space we had sat in.
​After realising that he was missing I noticed he was across a big ditch looking around the area. However, on his way back to the group he somehow managed to drop a boulder on his heel and grate the skin off it … because of course, he can’t just sit still!! But he believes it all to be worth it due to his ability to find pomegranates and figs… although nobody actually wanted to try them.​

​After this, we again boarded the minibus and drove to the Oasis. We then spent the rest of this day relaxing in the pool at a place that actually supplied alcohol! I think it’s safe to say that this was one of the more preferred hotels.

We then sat down to a relaxing meal.. although as always this wasn't the way it turned out as the hotel had many cats as occupants who didn't just want a cuddle but our food. So once again we didn't actually eat that much as Alex wanted to give all our food away to the kittens.

After dinner we sat around the pool, watching the stars with a couple of the younger people in the group talking about the experience so far which was incredible as it not only let us get to know our group better but it also allowed us to actually talk about the things we were seeing and experiences as we tried to process this whole different world.

Erg Chigaga

'The Sahara' 

Day 4 of the tour;
So finally a day where we were allowed a lay in, which was a change to the other days so far of the tour. We slept in till 11:30, missed breakfast but it was definitely worth it as we felt more refreshed than previous days where we had been up and out by 8:30. 
This day included heading into town to attempt to find some sort of snacks for lunch. When we reached the town we soon realised that this was going to be a tougher task than we set it out to be. 
When looking around the town we came across a few stalls and a couple small shops that resembled less stocked corner shops from England. 
In the stalls, that were situated in a little section of the main road, were mass amounts of raw meat which to us was no use what so ever as we didn't plan to cook a full cow while in the hotel. After looking around these stalls and getting driven out by the stench of hung up meat (basically smelt like there were 100 butchers all in one small place… it also didn't help that these stalls weren't outside) we resorted to the tiny corner shop and found out that if we were to eat anything it would be the sweet, chocolate or crisp category. 
But saying that … Alex was incredibly happy to find some Nutella (which we would later realise wouldn’t go down as quickly as hoped). So the unsuccessful trip then lead us back to the hotel where we relaxed a bit more until around 3:30 as due to the next part of the trek taking place in the Sahara desert it was far too hot to cross it at that moment.​
Boy making pottery
​The time then came to board the minibus that had became like a less cool version of our home. We drove to the ancient library that was situated just outside of the Sahara desert. 
This library had the oldest books inside it. We were even lucky enough to have a man show us what they said or what the content of the books was, for example, the first writings of antonym as well the old Quran. 
(This was definitely a trip for book lovers and those interested in different cultures history regarding reading and writing). 
This then leads to the place where they made pottery that was sold to support the local community surrounding this area. The people here were so incredibly talented and we even had the pleasure of watching one of the boys make a vase out of clay in the little space they had and the minimalist equipment available.

Camel Ride Sahara Desert
​After seeing these features of this village we carried on to the Sahara Desert where we dropped our bags off at the camp which would become our home for the night. The beds were all placed outside and were surrounded by palm trees. We soon realised that we would, in fact, be sleeping underneath the stars and have the ability to star gaze before going to sleep that night. 
(to be honest … we couldn't wait to get to bed). 
But before we could go to bed and watch the world pass by we had an equally impressive thing to do … the camel ride. Now at first glance, I was so scared to climb on top of the camel let alone be carried around by it for an hour so after letting multiple people within the group get on their camels first (including Alex) I finally came face to face with my camel. 
Once on the camel we soon realised that they weren't as comfy as some of the other people had made them look however after being on them for a while it soon became to feel almost normal. This camel ride took us through a small part of the Sahara desert at sunset which was incredible to see. 
The sun setting over the golden sand dunes will be something I will never forget the look of and having the ability to stop half way through the camel ride to appreciate the sandy landscape of the Sahara desert made it all feel even more real.

​After arriving back at the camp and slowly stepping off our camels we were greeted with a lovely dinner table to which after not having a very large lunch was a lovely site. While eating we had an impreesive view of bats drinking water while on the wing (basically swooping down on the pool at high speeds and scooping water into thier mouths) 
After Dinner, we laid in bed and watched as the stars made their patterns in the sky and continuously pointed out the constellations as they showed themselves. This was one of the most magical nights I have ever experienced as it was so different to anything else I had ever experienced. 
After staying up too long watching the stars I realised the time we had to get up tomorrow and soon drowned out Alex’s snoring and went to sleep myself.

Taroudannt

'Goats in trees'

Desert Camp

​Day 5; 
Waking up after sleeping for around 4 hours wasn't the best feeling but knowing the adventures were about to continue ensured everyone was in high spirits excited for the day ahead. We woke up at 3:30 am and had an incredibly early breakfast... of course, me and Alex were the last ones to the 4X4 for the desert trek meaning we didn't get to go in the same one but that didn't dull our spirits too much. 

We were on the roads by 4:30 am and then off the roads on to the sandy dunes and vast landscapes, although it was a bumpy ride I still managed to get some needed rest. 

When it hit around 6:30 am we came to a sudden halt next to the camp we were supposed to have stayed in the night before however, the weather meant that we couldn't stay in the middle of the desert. 

Once we got out of the 4x4s we climbed a little sand dune to sit on top of and watch as the sun rose over the rest of the desert. Although this sounds incredibly romantic, Alex ended up running up the sand dune behind our one as it was massive and he felt like in doing so he would accomplish something. But he still managed to run back to our sand dune for the moment the sun rose completely.​

Sun rise over desert
Lake FloorThe site where there was tonnes of fossils lying around
​After the amazing sunrise, just witnessed we continued on through the desert in the 4x4s for another 2 and a half hours, stopping off around half way through to pick up some fossils from a dried up lake that now was home to stones, rocks and fossils (Orthoceras). 

After this little stop off and the stop off to see a little house in the middle of the otherwise vacant desert, we boarded another minibus for another 6 hours to get to our hotel. 

Goat in tree
We stopped again, half way through the trip for a little lunch as the last meal we had eaten had been at 3:30 am that morning. After lunch, we carried on until we were stopped again to look at some goats that were up a tree.

​We soon found out they weren't just chilling up in the trees but instead were eating the Argan oil seeds as they eat the yellow fleshy outside and then the inside pip is spat out which is then collected and used in the production of Argan oil products. 

​Then back on to the minibus for another hour and a half ending us at the Argan oil production place where I bought a tub of moisturiser as it was incredibly cheaper than at home so it was almost an investment. 


Once we finally arrived at our hotel it was a lush palace which included walled gardens and a hall decked out with portraits, old fashioned furniture, swords and jewels. After seeing the beauty of our hotel we soon found the pool which again was an amazing feeling after being on that minibus for sure a large timescale and we ended up throwing the ball around with a couple of the children in the pool as well as other members of our lovely group. 
​
After our pool session had finished Alex being Alex managed to find a tortoise amongst the many peacocks and pea-chicks which once again was added to the many amazing things we had come across in Morocco.

Essaouira

'Port City'

Castle Wall
Day six;
​We left our beautiful hotel and were back on the road. We took a walk up to an old city as well as viewing the top of the wall that surrounded the city, although the wall wasn't massive in size the architecture and history saw it increase in value. 

After this, we continued on in the mini bus to a shopping centre which we saw had a Mcdonalds… this cheered everyone up massively due to the mass amounts we had consumed of tagines. Also, the Mcdonalds in Morocco had some chunky chips called ‘dip chips’ which were pretty good. Alex also bought some cat food for the kittens and cats we had come across on our journey through Morocco and also some pots that we planned to put our spices into to take home after we found a little shop (defiantly recommend this). 


​After walking around the city we all agreed that this town although still tourist emphasised, had a completely different atmosphere to that of Marrakech and it was also less hot and sweaty so all in all it had a completely different and nice feel to it. 

The stall vendors were very polite and didn't push for sales.
We were told later that this is because in Marrakesh the rent on the shops is a lot more so the vendors are pressured to pushing a sale more. 

This was the Morocco vibe we had been told about. Once we had figured out the vibe of this little coast side town we moved on to purchasing lots and lots of presents and also bought the spices for our little jars that we had our minds set on. 
We were welcomed into one spice store and the owner made us tea and told us in detail all about each herd and spices and the story behind them.
​We were given the chance to go on a very interesting tour of the city where we got to see the beautiful, all blue fishing boats of Essaouira and walk along the fort walls surrounding the town. As you walk around the city you'll see many "stray" dogs, however, these dogs are well kept and looked after by the city as a whole and are very friendly... if not fat.

It was a nice change to have the ability to move around the town just me and Alex and have an amazing dinner together that even came with some amazing live music. Essaouira has plenty of different restaurants but is renowned for its sea food, which for us lived up to its name.

 I would definitely recommend this little town and feel like it would be a more peaceful break compared to that of
Marrakech. It was definitely weird to see how much things can change without going that far within a country where the landscape stays very similar through out.
Work shop Morocco
Day 7;
Once woken up and dressed we set up for another day in Essaouira.
​We started the day with a tour at 9 am which took us to a wood shop that showed us how the products were carved and made and what sort of tree stump they were carved out of (Thuya wood). 




Wood Shop Essaouira
​The products they were crafting varied from tables to little wooden boxes. 
This was an eye opening experience when looking into the business and working lives of those living in the town, as it illustrated how they are trying really hard to keep their old trades alive, to ensure the people within the town had the opportunity for jobs and a safe income.
Rather than turning to machinery and factories, which may have been an easier solution for the businesses as this can obviously produce more. ​

​After this, we walked through the town to a little jewellery store which showed us the detail that was put into each piece that was made there and again showed the skills of those living in the town. One of the families that were a part of our group spent around an hour searching for the perfect necklace, bracelet and present so we decided to leave them to it and head back to the hotel to get ready for lunch.

​After so many great days regarding food, apart from the first days in Marrakesh (uncooked Burger), lunch was pretty much a disaster. Alex’s spaghetti was awful so he obviously wasn't very happy about that and everyone else’s food didn't turn out to be that nice either. (we have learnt western food in Morocco will rarely ever live up to our standards). 

Following this disaster, we tried to lift everyone's moods so we headed down to the beach as we were previously told that the beaches here we exactly like the ones in Miami... who could miss up that opportunity... But of course bad luck normally comes in threes and the beaches turned out to look more like one in Cornwall except the English waters would definitely be less polluted than the sea was here. 

After attempting to wait it out and enjoy the beach as much as possible, we gave up, getting sand blown into our eyes and not being able to go into the sea because of the floating bottles and the colour of it all together was enough.  (don't go to Essaouira for the beaches)

So headed for a little ice cream parlour in the middle of town. Alex got a banana and Nutella crepe so his moods lifted quite a bit and then I managed to get a nap in before dinner so by the time we were heading out for some food we both were on a better level.

After returning to the hostel in Essaouira, we had a farewell meeting and said goodbye to all the fellow travellers we had met on our journey through Morocco. We later returned to Marrakesh and although we were sad to leave this amazing country we were ready to share our adventures with everyone back home. 

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This website is run to help share travel experiences and advice. We rely on travellers from all around the world to record their travels and send them in so that we can share and connect them with people interested in travelling or to those wanting to know more about that certain destination. (please get in contact if you have a trip you would like to share)
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Myself (Alex Hood) and the head journalist of the site (Elly Babe) also share our own travel experience for others to enjoy and be inspired by. We both study English Literature at the University of Brighton and love the way in which the site has allowed us to put in to practice what we have learn't on our degree.  We will be moving to Athens for a study year so expect lost of content from Greece. Any advice or tips are always welcome. 

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