CULTURE AND BEACH… HOW TO COMBINE A HOLIDAY FORMULA TO PLEASE ALL THE MEMBERS OF THE FAMILY Some people love the unrest and the countless opportunities the big city offers. Others, perhaps tired of the urban hustle and bustle, are looking for new ways away from it. Syros (gr. Σύρος): Home of the main port of the Cyclades, the archipelago of the Aegean Islands, including Santorini, Mykonos, and the ancient sanctuary at Delos, which was of great importance in ancient times. Lila: a slender Greek woman, not playing an important role in Greek life. They both met and fell in love with each other. The beauty of the island and Lila's hunger for life experiences resulted in a meeting many will remember. I met Lila in her guest house in Ermoupoli (gr. Ερμούπολη). She was friendly, open, and always helpful. Encouraged by my interest, she quickly told me the history of the guesthouse itself. Within the walls of the former French consulate, it created some cosy, charming rooms in 2003, offering rest, food, and exciting conversation to all those curious about history and tradition, as well as those craving the summer sun on the Greek island. Hailing from Athens and fascinated by high culture, she is keen to support various artists (such as Eva Persaki), display their work on her walls, and provide advertising space for local events: workshops, concerts, etc. The guesthouse is located on one of the numerous characteristic streets of Cycladic architecture. Its stone wall in a beautiful natural sandy colour perfectly matches the colour of the local soil and the surrounding sun-scorched nature. The rooms are small and decorated in a minimalist way, but their style and the warmth of the restored walls encourage you to stay inside after a long day of sightseeing or beachcombing. From here, it is easy to get to every corner of the island's capital and the surrounding tourist attractions. On the first day, we look at the city with interest, walking around, looking for the scent of places forgotten by the tourist crowds, peering into alleys, admiring the architecture, enjoying the shade like children. Our welcome to the island culminates with dinner on the bustling platia (gr. πλατεῖα), in Miaouli Square, at the foot of Greece's largest town hall with its monumental 15.5m-wide staircase, which houses the Archaeological Museum. The Town Hall was designed by the famous German architect Ernst Ziller. All the floors represent different styles - Ionic, Corinthian, Tuscan. In modern Greece, the term platia refers to the main square, which, together with cafes, tavernas and playgrounds, forms the social centre of the place. Especially in the evening, when everyone is thirsty for the coolness of the end of the day. The ubiquitous pigeons accompany us. If someone runs out of the famous tobacco here, they can buy it at a kiosk called periptero (gr. Περίπτερο), trading in soap and biscuits. In port cities such as Syros, the platia often competes with the promenade, which, situated along the harbour, invites you to stroll in the cool sea breeze. They are often linked to each other in terms of urban planning. The atmosphere of a summer evening recalls a Greek family: children, parents, elderly family members. Everyone participates in the struggle around the table, drinking, eating, and talking about everything important and insignificant, about what is happening in politics, in the kitchen, among the family members, and, even better, by the neighbours. The art of living and the emanation of the Greek spirit hidden in the concept of halara (gr. χαλαρά) means complete relaxation, without haste. This philosophy was brought to the public in Nikos Kazantzakis' Zorba the Greek, published in 1946, presenting the character of the impulsive, quick-tempered, and mysterious Alexis Zorba as the epitome of the Greek pathos of carpe diem. The summer Ermupoli encourages this hedonistic attitude. After all, when, if not on holiday, you can walk lazily, get lost and find yourself again in the back-streets of tourist chaos, unhurriedly following in the footsteps of ancestors from the Cycladic culture dating back to the Bronze Age. We wake up in beautiful moods, ready to conquer the next part of the island, namely Ano Syros (Greek: Άνω Σύρος), at the foot of which Ermupoli extends. "Upper Syros" was the capital of the island before Ermupoli itself became more important due to its proximity to the sea and the trade through which the new capital city developed. That is also reflected in the name itself, which derives from the Greek god Hermes, responsible for goods exchange on Mount Olympus. Here we climb a thousand steps, through winding streets, to see the famous church of St. Gregory, built as early as 1208. Miejscowość słynie ze swojej katolickiej diaspory, która żyje tutaj do dziś od chwili, kiedy po IV krucjacie z 1204 roku wyspę przejęli Krzyżowcy. At the same time, Ano Syros is the cradle of rebetiko - the "revolutionary" music called Greek blues. It is here that the father of this style, Markos Vamvakaris (gr. Μάρκος Βαμβακάρης), was born, according to some, and it is here that a museum dedicated to him and the music itself has been founded. After a few days on the island, we have had enough of eating in tavernas. The answer awaits us not far from our B&B - food in the town's canteen prepared mainly by local housewives, the so-called cooked food (gr. μαγειρευτό). Typical, homemade food that will pleasantly fill your stomach but at the same time won't wreak havoc on your pocket. Large display cases showcase delicious dishes to choose from. Znajdzie się coś dla każdego – w szczególności wegetarianie poczują się tutaj komfortowo, bo kuchnia grecka poza wieloma tradycyjnymi mięsiwami jest wyjątkowo bogata w potrawy warzywne. Interestingly, this gastronomic formula is also used by many Greeks themselves, as the dishes are equivalent to what can be eaten every day in an average household. Highly recommended! It is worth ordering or buying food in advance, as there is not much choice already around midday. It also provides a quick meal alternative after a day out. The average Greek spends at least a short while on the beach every day. Having no time during the day, he will go there after work to cool down after a long day. Undoubtedly, Greece's geophysical structure favours this lifelong approach, as islands and the coastline itself are in abundance in the country. And while we all know that the best beaches are far from the cities, and spending time at some of them is a whole trip, many people choose to do it. Most often with a group of friends, because there is no other society as sociable as the Greeks. The sea, friends, family and ouzo, which tastes best with the sea breeze in your hair. In our case, we ended up on Finikas beach (gr. Παραλία Φοίνικας) several kilometres from the town itself. The beach made a positive impression on us: organised, cosy in its size and clean - at least at the beginning of the day. The soothing sight of sailboats bobbing sideways on small waves. My daughter won't get out of the water, and when we do manage to get her ashore, the debate starts about ice cream, which, after all, is there to be eaten to cool us down. We can't help but agree with her, so we buy another "frozen water" time and again. All the snacks we've brought are long forgotten, and we start looking around for a place to eat something more nutritious. As it befits good tourist infrastructure, on the other side of the road, we see the Calmo Mare taverna. The name recalls Italy rather than Greece, but the dishes served here are based mainly on local tastes. Lunch turns out to be a complete success and leaves an even better impression of a nice day. As a 'converted' atheist, I don't attend church, but from an architectural perspective, they play a significant role when I visit new places. The structure is garnished with the colours of local customs, which are impossible not to miss in Greece. It is here that old traditions are cultivated and friendships maintained. It is the second most important meeting place, after platia, for small communities, as the Greek year of religious festivals abounds in opportunities for prayer and the exchange of local news over a shared meal. Church after church, we thus traverse the transcendental avenues of life. Although the canon of cultural entertainment does not include traditional closed theatres during summer holidays, the pearl of local architecture - the Apollon Theatre, cut as if from a template of Italian architecture does not escape our attention. Its design was inspired by at least four Italian theatres: La Scala in Milan, San Carlo in Naples, Teatro Academico in Castelfranco Veneto and Teatro della Pergola in Florence. It is undoubtedly an image pleasing to the eye, and it also caresses the heart that it exists on the island, providing its inhabitants with additional 'cultural stimuli'. After all, as befits Ermupoli, the city cultivates recognised cultural achievements (dating back to the Bronze Age) while boldly looking to the future. The last evening - our farewell to the island - was naturally going to be romantic. It is crucial to find a good vantage point or other spectacularly picturesque location when planning such an event. Such is the site of Sta Vaporia (Στα Βαπόρια in Greek), a restaurant perched on a steep cliff. Paradoxically designed relatively sparingly, it has an exciting range of dishes, reflecting with finesse the sight of the beautiful sea itself, in which it looks at itself like in the mirror. The time has come to set off to continue our journey. It was only a few days but in one of the most charming places in Greece. I suspect we will still be back here on our next Greek trip. Author,Images and text by Brygida Kowalska-Nwaimo
2 Comments
25/12/2022 07:40:59 pm
However, keep in mind that it’s also important to spend some time relaxing over your holiday break!
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25/12/2022 07:42:57 pm
If you want to get the most out of your holidays, make a calendar of the things you need to do, and schedule in time for a mixture of fun activities and productive tasks.
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